Contents: Engine electrical system ⇊ Fuel system ⇊ Cooling system ⇊ Clutch ⇊ Drive axles ⇊ Brakes ⇊ Suspension and steering ⇊
1. The engine does not turn over when trying to start
- The battery contacts are loose or corroded. The battery is discharged or damaged.
- The automatic transmission is not in the "P" or "N" positions or the clutch pedal is not fully depressed (see Chapters 7, 8).
- Loss of contact in the starter control circuit (see Chapters 5, 12). The starter gear is jammed by the flywheel (see Chapter 5).
- Starter relay failure (see Chapter 5).
- Starter failure (see Chapter 5).
- Ignition switch malfunction (see Chapter 12).
- Broken teeth of the starter gear or flywheel (see Chapter 5).
2. The engine turns but does not start
- No fuel.
- The battery is discharged (low starting speed).
- Incorrect fuel level adjustment in the carburetor, usually accompanied by a smell of fuel under the hood. Wait a few minutes, fully open the throttle and try to start again.
- Incorrect adjustment of the air damper (see Chapter 4).
- No fuel entering the carburetor: check the fuel filter and the operation of the fuel pump (see Chapters 1, 4).
- Fuel leak, fuel mixture control sensor malfunction (see Chapter 6).
- Fuel is not supplied to the injectors (see Chapter 4).
- Ignition system malfunction (see Chapter 5).
- The spark plug gap is not adjusted (see Chapter 1).
- Lost contact in launch target (see Chapter 5). Faulty ignition timing adjustment.
- Ignition coil failure.
3. Difficulty starting a cold engine
- The battery is discharged.
- The carburetor is overflowing.
- Fuel system malfunction (see Chapter 4).
- Air-fuel ratio sensor malfunction (see Chapter 6).
- Air damper malfunction (see Chapter 4).
- Fuel leak (see Chapter 4).
- Distributor failure (see Chapter 5).
4. Difficulty starting a hot engine
- The air filter is clogged (see Chapter 1).
- The carburetor is overflowing.
- No fuel supplied (see Chapter 4).
- The battery contacts are oxidized, especially the negative one.
5. Noise and uneven rotation of the starter
- Broken teeth of starter or flywheel gears.
- The starter mounting bolts are not tightened (see Chapter 5).
6. The engine starts but immediately stops
- Faults in the electrical connections of the distributor, coil or generator (Chapter 5).
- Insufficient fuel supply (Chapters 1, 4) - check the operation of the fuel pump and whether the fuel lines are clogged.
- Air leak in carburetor or intake manifold. Check all connections and vacuum hoses (see Chapter 4).
7. Engine in oil
- Oil leaks through the oil pan gasket, valve cover, engine seals, etc.
8. Uneven idle speed
- Vacuum leaks. Check the condition of the vacuum hoses.
- Loose fit of the exhaust gas recirculation valve (see Chapter 6).
- The air filter is clogged.
- Insufficient fuel supply (see Chapter 4).
- Opening the gas joint of the cylinder head (see Chapter 2).
- Camshaft drive belt wear (see Chapter 2).
- Camshaft cam wear (see Chapter 2).
- Malfunction of the carburetor or injection system (see Chapter 4).
9. Misfiring at idle
- Wear of spark plug contacts (Chapter 1).
- Defect of high voltage wires (Chapter 1).
- Vacuum leaks.
- Faulty ignition timing (Chapter 1).
- Low compression pressure ("compression") (see Chapter 2).
- Incorrect idle speed adjustment.
- Incorrect operation of the fuel system (Chapter 4).
- Jamming or malfunctioning of the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system (Chapter 6).
10. Misfires under load
- The fuel filter is clogged.
- Low fuel consumption through injectors (Chapter 4).
- Carburetor malfunctions (Chapter 4).
- Damage to spark plugs (Chapter 1).
- Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
- Crack in the distributor cap or damage to its contacts.
- Leaks on high-voltage wires (Chapters 1, 5).
- Incorrect functioning of the EGR system.
- Insufficient compression pressure (Chapter 2).
- Ignition system malfunction (Chapter 5).
- Vacuum leaks.
11. Drop in revs during acceleration ("dips")
- The spark plugs are faulty (Chapter 1).
- The carburetor or injection system is not adjusted (Chapter 4).
- Clogged fuel filter (Chapters 1, 4).
- Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
- Vacuum leaks.
- Defective high-voltage wires or other components of the ignition system.
12. Unstable engine operation
- Vacuum leaks.
- Fuel pump defect (Chapter 4).
- Loss of contact in the injector connector (Chapter 4).
- Electronic control module defect (Chapter 6).
13. The engine stops
- Incorrect idle speed adjustment.
- Water in fuel or clogged fuel filter.
- Damage to the distributor (Chapter 5).
- Defect of the EGR system (Chapter 6).
- Spark plug defect (Chapter 1).
- Defect of high voltage wires (Chapter 1).
- Vacuum leaks.
- Incorrect valve clearance adjustment (Chapter 1).
- Fuel system defect.
14. Loss of engine power
- Incorrect ignition timing adjustment (Chapter 5).
- Large distributor shaft clearance (Chapter 5).
- Wear of rotor and/or distributor cap (Chapters 1, 5).
- Spark plug defect (Chapter 1).
- Incorrect adjustment of the fuel system (Chapter 4).
- Ignition coil defect (Chapter 5).
- Brake defect (Chapter 9).
- Incorrect fluid level in automatic transmission.
- Clutch slippage (Chapter 8).
- Clogged fuel filter or dirt in the fuel system (Chapters 1, 4).
- Incorrect operation of the EGR system (Chapter 6).
- Low compression pressure ("compression") (Chapter 2).
15. Engine popping sounds in the muffler
- Incorrect operation of the EGR system (Chapter 6).
- Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
- Defective ignition system (cracks in spark plug insulators, high-voltage wires, distributor cap) (Chapters 1, 5).
- Incorrect adjustment of the fuel system (Chapter 4).
- Vacuum leak.
- Incorrect adjustment of terminal clearances, stuck or burnt valves.
16. Engine detonation knocks during acceleration Low fuel quality
- Incorrect setting of ignition timing (Chapter 1).
- Incorrect adjustment of the fuel system (Chapter 4).
- Damage to spark plugs or high-voltage wires (Chapter 1).
- Worn or damaged distributor components (Chapter 5).
- Defect of the EGR system (Chapter 6).
- Vacuum leaks.
- Carbon deposits (carbon) in the combustion chamber.
17. Lighting of the "low oil pressure" indicator
- Low oil level or low oil viscosity.
- Low idle speed.
- Short circuit in the circuit (Chapter 12).
- Oil pressure sensor defect (Chapter 2).
- Wear of bearings and/or oil pump (Chapter 2).
18. Glow ignition
- Too high idle speed
- Vacuum leaks.
- Increased engine operating temperature (Chapter 3).
- Incorrect ignition timing adjustment.
- The carburetor requires repair.
- The cold/hot air intake switch valve does not work (see Chapter 6).
Engine electrical system
19. The battery does not charge
- Generator drive belt defective.
- Low electrolyte level.
- The battery contacts are oxidized.
- Low generator charging current (Chapter 5).
- Electrical circuit faults (Chapter 5).
- Short circuit in wiring (Chapter 12).
- Internal Battery Defect (Chapters 1, 5).
20. The "no charge" indicator lights up
- Generator and/or charging circuit defective (Chapter 5).
- Generator drive belt defective.
- Voltage regulator defect (Chapter 5).
21. The "no charge" indicator does not light when the ignition is on
- Lamp defect (Chapter 12).
- Defect in the chain (Chapter 12).
Fuel system
22. High fuel consumption
- The air filter is clogged.
- Incorrect ignition adjustment (Chapter 5).
- Incorrect operation of the EGR system (Chapter 6).
- Wear or damage to fuel system components (Chapter 4).
- Low tire pressure or wrong size tires.
23. Fuel leak and fuel smell
- Leak in the feed and return pipes. Fuel tank overfilled.
- The fuel vapor filter is clogged (Chapters 1, 6).
- Worn injectors or incorrect operation of the carburetor.
Cooling system
24. Overheating
- Low coolant level (Chapter 1).
- Water pump drive belt defective (Chapter 1).
- Deposits in the radiator tubes or excessive contamination of the radiator grille (Chapter 3).
- Thermostat defective.
- The fan blades are broken.
- The radiator cap does not hold pressure (Chapter 3).
- Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
25. The engine does not warm up
- Thermostat defective.
- Temperature sensor defect (Chapter 3).
26. External coolant leaks
- Damage to hoses and loose clamps.
- Damage to the pump seal (Chapter 3).
- Cracks in the radiator, expansion tank, heater.
27. Internal coolant leaks
28. Coolant level low
- Too much fluid in the system.
- Overheat.
- Internal and external leaks.
- Radiator cap defect.
29. Poor coolant circulation
- The water pump is not working (Chapter 3).
- Resistance in the cooling system.
- Drive belt defect.
- Thermostat defective.
Clutch
30. Low clutch release force
31. Unclear gear shifting
- Gearbox defect (Chapter 7).
- Clutch disc defect (Chapter 8).
- Incorrect assembly of the fork-release bearing unit.
- Pressure plate defect.
- Loosening of the clutch basket fastening to the flywheel.
32. Clutch slippage
- Clutch disc wear (Chapter 8).
- Disc slippage due to crankshaft oil seal leak.
- Insufficient clutch disc fit.
- Warping of the pressure plate or flywheel.
- Weak diaphragm springs.
- Clutch disc overheating.
33. Vibrations when engaging the clutch
- Oiling or burning of the clutch disc.
- Worn or weakened engine or gearbox mounts (Chapter 7).
- Wear of clutch disc hub splines (Chapter 8).
- Warping of the pressure plate or flywheel (Chapter 8).
- Burning or resinification of the flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter 8).
34. Rattling noise in the gearbox
- Loss of release bearing fork (Chapter 8).
- Clutch disc damper spring defect (Chapter 8).
- Low engine idle speed (Chapter 1).
35. Noise in the clutch area
36. The clutch pedal does not return to its original position
37. High clutch release force
38. Impact noise at low speeds
- Wear of CV joints of drive axles (Chapter 8).
- Wear of the differential side gear shaft (Chapter 7A).
39. Noise when cornering
- Source - differential (Chapter 7A).
40. Clunking sound when accelerating and decelerating
- Loss of engine or transmission mounts (Chapters 2, 7A).
- Wear of the main gear pinion shaft.
- Wear of the differential side gear shaft.
- Wear or damage to CV joints (internal).
41. Clicking sound when turning corners
- Wear or damage to CV joints (outer).
42. Vibration
- Damage to wheel bearings (Chapter 10).
- Damage to drive axles (Chapters 8).
- Tire defect (Chapter 1).
- The wheels are not balanced.
- Wear of CV joints (Chapter 8).
44. Noise in one particular gear
- Damage or wear of the constant mesh gear.
- Damage or wear of synchronizers (Chapter 7A).
- The reverse gear engagement fork is bent.
- The 4th gear pinion is damaged (Chapter 7A).
- Worn or damaged reverse gear idler gear.
45. Noise in all gears
- Not enough lubrication in the gearbox housing.
- Bearings worn or damaged.
- Wear or damage to the primary and/or secondary shafts.
46. Gear shifting
- Worn or incorrectly adjusted rods (Chapter 7A).
- Loss of fastening of the box to the engine.
- The gear release shafts are bent.
- The input shaft bearing retainer is lost or broken.
- Dirt between the clutch cover and the flywheel housing.
- Shift fork wear.
47. Oil leaks
- Wear of differential seals (Chapter 7).
- Excess oil in the box (Chapter 1).
- The input shaft bearing retainer is lost or broken (Chapter 7A).
- Damage to the primary shaft seal.
48. Gear jamming
- Wear or damage to the rods (Chapter 7A).
- Internal damage to the box.
- Automatic transmission.
49. Liquid leaks
Automatic transmission fluid is dark red. It is necessary to distinguish between leaks from the gearbox and from the engine. Before searching for leaks, flush the power unit. Make a test drive at low speed (so that air currents do not carry oil droplets far from the source). Common leak locations:
- a) pallet;
- b) dipstick tube;
- c) pipeline;
- d) connection unit for the speed sensor and speedometer cable.
50. Changing the color of oil
- Burning of transmission fluid.
51. Switching problems
Check and adjust the rods. Usually, the lack of adjustment shows itself as follows:
- a) starting the engine in positions other than "P" or "N";
- b) the gear engagement indicator does not correspond to the gear engaged;
- c) the vehicle is moving when the selector lever is in position "P".
52. Gears do not shift when accelerating
- The gearbox valve cable is not adjusted.
53. The engine starts when the lever is in positions other than P or N
- Neutral position engagement fault (Chapter 7A).
54. Slippage, uneven gear shifting, noise
To solve this problem, contact the service station. You can only check the oil level in the box.
Drive axles
55. Clicking sounds when turning
- Wear or damage to the outer CV joints (Chapter 8).
56. Shaking or vibration during acceleration
- Excessive wheel alignment (Chapter 10).
- The length of the springs does not correspond to the standard (Chapter 10).
- Wear or damage to CV joints (Chapter 8).
- CV joints jamming.
57. Vibration at high speed Wheels are unbalanced
- Tyre defects.
- Wear of CV joints.
Brakes
Note: Before working on the brakes, make sure that:
- a) the tires are in good condition and have normal pressure;
- b) the centering is correct;
- c) the vehicle is not overloaded.
58. The car pulls to the side when braking
- The tire pressure is not correct.
- Different types of tires on the same axle.
- Increased resistance (for example, a bend) brake pipes and hoses (Chapter 9).
- Incorrect functioning of the brake drum or caliper. Suspension parts are missing.
- The brake caliper is missing.
- Wear of the linings on one side.
59. Noise when braking
- The linings are worn out. Replace them with new ones immediately.
60. Pulsation of force on the brake pedal
- Increased drum or disc beat.
- Uneven wear of the linings.
- Brake disc defect.
61. Increased braking force
- The brake booster is faulty.
- The brake force redistribution system is faulty.
- Wear of linings.
- Brake cylinder sticking.
- Oiling of brake linings.
- New pads that have not been broken in.
62. Increased brake pedal travel
- Incorrect functioning of the brake force redistribution system (Chapter 9).
- Low brake fluid in master cylinder.
- Air in the brake system.
63. Braking delay
- Incorrect adjustment of the brake light switch (Chapter 9).
- The master cylinder piston does not return completely.
- Resistance of brake pipes and hoses, for example due to kinking.
- Incorrect adjustment of the parking brake cable.
64. Brake sticking and lack of action
- Malfunctions of the brake force distribution system (Chapter 9).
- Brake booster failure.
- Bending in the pedal drive mechanism.
65. Variable brake pedal pressure
- Air in the system.
- Loss of tightening of the main brake cylinder mounting bolts.
- Defective master brake cylinder.
66. Low brake pedal force
- Low fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir due to leaks through the brake cylinders.
- Damage to brake pipes.
67. Parking brake malfunction
- Incorrect adjustment of the rods (Chapter 9).
Suspension and steering
Note: Make sure that:
- a) the tires are not worn and have normal pressure;
- b) the steering shaft cardan joints are fastened correctly;
- c) there is no damage to the suspension and steering mechanism;
- d) the wheels are balanced, the bearings are fit for use.
68. The car pulls to the side
- Different tires on the same axle (Chapter 10).
- The springs are broken or damaged.
- Incorrect wheel alignment.
- Front brake sticking.
69. Increased tire wear
- Incorrect wheel alignment.
- The springs are broken or sagged.
- The wheels are unbalanced.
- Shock absorber failure.
- Constant overloading of the vehicle.
70. Increased noise from wheels
- Tire defect.
- Shock absorber defect.
71. Wheel vibration
- Wheel imbalance.
- Bearing wear (Chapters 8, 10).
- Wear of the tie rod ends.
- Wear of ball joints (Chapter 10).
- Increased wheel runout.
- Tire defect.
72. Increased effort on the steering wheel
- No lubrication in ball joints, tie rod ends and steering gear
- Incorrect wheel alignment.
- Low tire pressure.
73. Steering does not return to straight ahead position
- No grease in ball joints
- The ball joints are bent.
- The steering column is bent.
- There is no lubrication in the steering gear.
- Incorrect wheel alignment
- Damage to steering or suspension components.
74. Increased noise in the front of the car
- No grease in ball joints.
- Damage to the rack mount.
- Wear of the tie rod bushings or tie rod ends.
- Loose stabilizer mount.
- Loose wheel nuts.
- Loose suspension mounts.
75. Poor steering stability
- Different tires on the same axle.
- Loss of lubrication in ball joints.
- Wear in the rack elements.
- Loose stabilizer mount.
- The springs are broken or sagged.
- Wheel alignment is out of adjustment.
76. Steering wheel shakes when braking
- Wheel bearing wear.
- The springs are broken or sagged.
- Wheel brake cylinders leaking.
- Warping of the brake drum or disc.
77. Excessive roll when cornering and braking
- Stabilizer defect.
- Worn shock absorber supports or defective.
- The springs are broken or sagged.
- Overloading the vehicle.
78. Low ground clearance (ground clearance)
- Overloading the vehicle.
- Shock absorber wear.
- The springs are broken or sagged.
79. Increased wear of the middle part of the tire tread
- Incorrect wheel alignment
- Shock absorber wear.
- Wheel bearing wear
- Increased wheel runout.
- Wear of ball joints.
80. Increased wear on the outer edge of the tire tread
- Incorrect tire pressure.
- High cornering speed.
- Incorrect wheel alignment.
- The suspension rods are bent.
81. Increased wear of the inner edge of the tire tread
- Incorrect tire pressure.
- Incorrect wheel alignment.
- Damage to steering components.
82. Spotty tire tread wear
- The wheel is unbalanced.
- Disc damage.
- Tire defect.
83. Increased clearances in the steering
- Bearing wear.
- Wear of the tie rod ends.
- Broken pinion or steering rack.
- Wear of the intermediate shaft of the steering gear.
84. Clicking sounds in the rack/pinion pair
- Lack of lubrication.
- Loss of relative adjustment.
[The text of the article is available on the website: HONDABOOK.ru]
