2. Turn the engine upside down.
3. Give fixing bolts and remove covers of radical bearings and/or assembly of their bridge.
4. If you have not already done this, remove the old main bearing shells from your beds in the block and covers. Wipe the beds with a clean, lint-free cloth - they should be immaculately clean.
Checking the operating clearances of main bearings
Note. Avoid touching the new bearing surfaces with bare hands to avoid unwanted contact of the bearings with traces of oil and chemicals that are always present on the fingers.
1. Wipe the backs of the new main bearing shells and insert the oil grooved ones (if provided) halves in their beds in the block. Insert the rest of the shell halves into the corresponding bearing caps. Make sure that the tongues of the liners enter the reciprocal landing grooves in the beds of the block and covers. The oil holes in the block must also be properly aligned with the holes in the liners.
Attention! Under no circumstances should you attempt to hammer an unfitted liner into your bed with a hammer. Do not lubricate the bearings at this stage!
2. Flanged Thrust Bushings (washers) should be installed in the bed of the fourth (counting from the timing belt) main bearing (see accompanying illustration). 3. Wipe the surfaces of the bearings in the block and the crankshaft main journals with a clean, lint-free rag.
4. Check the patency of the shaft oil holes, clean them if necessary. Any foreign particles contained in the oil paths will inevitably end up in the bearings.
5. Gently place the thoroughly wiped crankshaft into the main bearings of the block.
6. Before finally installing the shaft, it is necessary to check the operating clearances in its main bearings.
7. Cut the calibrated plastic wire from the Plastigage measuring set into lengths slightly shorter than the width of the bushings, and lay one piece of wire along each of the main shaft journals, parallel to their axis (see accompanying illustration).
8. Wipe the surfaces of the liners in the covers and install the latter and / or their bridge assembly in their regular place. Try not to move the pieces of calibrated wire laid along the necks of the shaft. Lightly oil the threads of the mounting bolts and screw them in, fixing the covers.
9a. In the order shown in the accompanying illustration, in three stages, tighten the bolts securing the covers and / or their bridge with the required force (Civic).
9b. In the order shown in the accompanying illustration, in three stages, tighten the bolts securing the covers and / or their bridge with the required force (Integra).
Attention! Do not allow the shaft to turn while tightening the fasteners!
10. Turn out bolts and carefully remove covers radical and/or assembly of their bridge. Place the removed covers in the order in which they are placed on the engine. Take care not to damage the flattened gauge wire and do not turn the shaft. If any of the caps cannot be removed, tap it gently with a soft-faced hammer to loosen it.
11. Using the width of the flattened threads, measured on the scale printed on the packaging of the Plastigage set, determine the operating clearances of the bearings (see accompanying illustration). Compare measurement results with requirements Specifications.
12. If the clearance is out of range, the wrong size bearings may have been installed (see Checking the condition and selection of liners of main and connecting rod bearings of the crankshaft). Before looking for new liners, make sure that dirt or oil has not got under the nested ones. If the calibrated wire is flattened at one end more than at the other, this indicates the presence of a neck taper (see Checking the condition of the crankshaft).
13. Carefully remove the gauge wire from the necks, scraping off all traces of it with some tool that is not too strong (like the edge of an old credit card). In extreme cases, you can use your own fingernail, as long as there are no scratches or scratches on the surface of the necks / liners.
Final installation of the crankshaft
Note. If the engine is equipped with a main bearing cap bridge (B18C1, B18C5, D16Y5, D16Y7 or D16Y8), first reinstall the connecting rod and piston group (see Installing connecting rod and piston assemblies and checking the working clearances in the connecting rod bearings of the crankshaft). Then bring all the pistons to the TDC positions so that they do not interfere with the installation of the camshaft.
1. Carefully remove the crankshaft from the engine.
2. Wipe the surfaces of the bearings in the block and evenly lubricate them with a thin layer of molybdenum-containing motor assembly grease. Be sure to also lubricate the thrust surfaces of the fourth bearing.
Attention! Try not to let grease get on the backs of the liners!
3. Make sure the crankshaft journals are absolutely clean, then lubricate (the same lubricant) seal-contact surfaces of the trunnions and carefully place the shaft into the block.
4. Wipe and lubricate the surfaces of the liners in the caps.
5. Install the main bearing caps and/or their bridge assembly to the engine.
6. Screw fixing bolts.
7. In the required order, tighten the bolts securing the caps of all bearings to the required torque.
8. Rotate the crankshaft several times by hand, checking for freedom of rotation.
9. Finally, use a blade-type feeler gauge or DTI gauge to determine the shaft end play (see Removing the crankshaft). If the thrust surfaces of the shaft are not worn or damaged, and the bearings are replaced with new ones, the axial play should not exceed the allowable limits.
10. Install a new crankshaft rear oil seal (see Replacement of a back epiploon of a cranked shaft).