Fluid Recommendations
All manual transmissions use machine oil, a non-plastic lubricant, as a lubricant. The oil must meet the same standards as the oil used in the engine, so SG is preferred, with SE or SF acceptable for 1984-89 vehicles. Consult the viscosity chart for the correct oil based on the expected temperature. The level should generally be checked once a year, or more frequently if a leak is noticed.
The frequency of change is indicated in the table at the end of the chapter.
Checking the level
There are no dipsticks on the manual transmission. The fluid must be checked by removing the filler bolt on the transmission side. The bolt is located near the right axle shaft at approximately 9 o'clock when viewed through the right fender.
The car must be level. If you are dexterous, the bolt can be removed from the car while working from above. Some people prefer to check the level from below. If this is the case, not only must the car be raised and securely supported, but it must also be level, assuming it is supported on 4 jacks. Raising only the front will not provide a proper level.
With the car level, remove the bolt. The fluid level should be just at the bottom of the well and should be felt with your finger. In the unlikely event that the fluid is low, oil can be added through the inspection hole. Adding oil is an art, as it must be carried out into a horizontal hole. Use a funnel and hose creatively. When the oil reaches the desired level, replace the bolt and tighten it to 45 Nm. Do not overtighten the nut; the penalty is a very expensive gearbox housing.
Draining and filling
The oil drain plug for the manual transmission is located near and below the right axle shaft. The drain bolt is easily identified by its round head with a square recess; it is not like any other bolt on the transmission case. Like the engine oil drain bolt, it also has a sealing washer that needs to be replaced at every replacement.
1. The car must be warmed up to operating temperature before starting. If possible, drive a few kilometers to warm up the box before starting to drain.
2. With the engine off, raise and support the front of the car. Agility and long arms will allow you to do this job without lifting, but it is much easier to do it with the car raised.
3. Place a tray under the box.
4. Remove the lower drain plug using a ratchet wrench inserted into the square recess; do not attempt to do this by grasping the round bolt with a pair of pliers. Drain the fluid. Loosening or removing the top (inspection) bolt will facilitate drainage.
5. Using a new washer, install the drain plug and tighten it to 40 Nm.
6. Fill the box through the inspection hole with oil until it flows out of the hole. Install the bolt in place and tighten it until your fingers tighten.
7. Lower the vehicle to the ground and ensure it is level. Remove the filler bolt and double check the level, adding oil if necessary. Replace the bolt, tighten it to 45 Nm.