Fluid Recommendations
All mechanical transmissions use machine oil - a non-plastic lubricant - as a lubricant. The oil must meet the same standards as the oil used in the engine, i.e. SG is preferred, and SE or SF are acceptable for 1984-89 vehicles. release. When referring to the viscosity chart for the correct oil selection, proceed from the expected temperature. The level should normally be checked once a year or more often if a leak is noticed.
The frequency of the change is indicated in the table at the end of the chapter.
Level check
There are no dipsticks on the mechanical box. Fluid should be checked by removing the filler bolt from the side of the box. The bolt is located near the right axle shaft at approximately 9 o'clock when viewed through the right fender.
The vehicle must be level. If you're dexterous enough, the bolt can be removed from the car while doing work from above. Some prefer to check the level from below. If this is the case, not only must the car be raised and securely fastened, but it must also be level, assuming a 4-jack stand. Raising only the front will not provide correct leveling.
After leveling the car, remove the bolt. The liquid level should be just at the bottom of the hole and should be felt with your finger. In the unlikely event that fluid is low, oil can be added through the inspection hole. The addition of oil is an art, as it must be carried out into a horizontal hole. Use the funnel and hose creatively. When the oil reaches the correct level, reinstall the bolt and tighten it to 45 Nm. Do not overtighten the nut; the punishment is a very expensive gearbox housing.
Drain and fill
The oil drain plug for the mechanical box is located near and below the right axle shaft. The drain bolt is easily recognizable by its round head with a square notch; it is unlike any other bolt on the box body. Like the engine oil drain bolt, it also has a sealing washer that needs to be changed every time you change it.
1. The car, before starting, must be warmed up to operating temperature. If possible, drive a few miles to warm up the box before draining.
2. With the engine off, raise and secure the front of the vehicle. Dexterity and long arms will allow you to do this work without lifting, but it is much easier to do this with the car raised.
3. Place the pallet under the box.
4. Remove the bottom drain plug using a ratchet wrench inserted into the square notch; don't try to do this by grabbing a round bolt with a pair of pliers. Drain the liquid. Loosening or removing the top (inspection) bolts will facilitate drainage.
5. Using a new washer, install the drain plug and tighten it to 40 Nm.
6. Fill the box through the inspection hole with oil until oil flows out of the hole. Reinstall the bolt and tighten until finger tight.
7. Lower the vehicle to the ground and make sure it is level. Remove the filler bolt and double check the level, adding oil if necessary. Install the bolt, tighten it to 45 Nm.