Don't believe your eyes
First - evaluate the technical condition of the machine: what kind of "beast" you drove under the window. Start with the engine and chassis: when you bought it, you must have paid a lot of attention to the bodywork and made sure that it is not bad. Rotten and worn out is difficult to pass off as good, no matter how hard the seller tries. But many domestic units often leave a good impression only thanks to... modern auto chemicals - then not every specialist will immediately determine what's what. For example, a complex of additives was poured into a mercilessly smoking and knocking engine, which practically negates the visible symptoms of wear. True, its action will be enough for 300-1000 km... In the cooling system leaking before the sale, there may be a lot of sealant or even mustard. There are medicines for "killed" battery. If oil was leaking from the gearbox or gearbox, imagine that a miracle liquid was poured there and... no, the oil will not stop oozing, but even when it all flows out, you won’t notice it - the gears will still turn on easily, and the gearbox won't buzz (two months, until complete death).
Do you think all of the above is a unique case? Not at all. car with this "set" it costs nothing to buy on the ad, and even more so, on the car market. At the same time, her body can be in relatively good condition, and the interior can be simply magnificent... So, in order to, having gone out of town for the first time on such a beauty, not to return by train, it is better to diagnose all nodes in the first days.
Is the motor healthy?
Let's start with the engine. After warming it up, fill in the liquid for a five-minute flushing of the lubrication system. Drain the oil, remove the filter. By installing a new (can be cheap), fill in domestic flushing oil and drive the engine at idle for half an hour. If the oil drained after this is black, the operation can be repeated (without changing the filter), because the package is designed for two times. The sound of a running motor should remain the same as it was before your manipulations. If there is a knock and clatter in the head of the block, then, filling in engine oil (and once again changing the filter, now to an expensive imported), go on your own to the service station - adjust the valves and tighten the chain. But if tractor sounds are heard in the lower part of the engine, changing their intensity depending on the speed, it's rubbish. Shut off the engine and, without filling in fresh oil, go in tow to the mechanics to inspect the main and connecting rod bearings.
Did your engine make any strange noises? Excellent - then wash it and, after wiping it dry, go on a test ride. On the way, record any unusual sounds and noises coming from under the hood, as well as (subjectively) purchase power. These indicators "health" motor should not change compared to the test drive when buying. After a hundred kilometers, inspect the engine for oil leaks. If there is, then the crankcase ventilation hose may be clogged or, worse, you will have to change gaskets and seals. What if a few days after flushing, blue smoke appeared from the muffler? Get ready to replace your valve stem seals as you are likely to "washed up" anti-smoke additive... To check, remove the crankcase ventilation hose - a barely noticeable smoke is acceptable from it. If the whitish smoke comes down in clubs, and the speed has increased, the oil scraper rings need to be replaced. Measure the compression to figure out - change only the rings or bore the cylinders with the revision of the liners, as well as the crankshaft and camshaft.
We wish that your motor does not show any of these symptoms - then there is reason to be sure that it will not bother the owner for 30-40 thousand kilometers, or even more.
The cooling system is treated similarly to the lubrication system: flushing fluid is poured into the radiator of a warm engine, and then, after driving the engine, all "burdu" without a trace. Then clean water is poured in and, starting the engine again, they carefully monitor the radiator, hoses, and heater tap. You can even ride on the water for several days (summer, of course!) and, if the level in the expansion tank has not dropped, feel free to fill "Antifreeze".
The ignition system, most likely, should not surprise: before selling it, as well as the carburetor, they pay increased attention. After all, the car must start from a half turn and accelerate briskly, without failures - otherwise who will buy it?! Therefore, change the candles, high-voltage wires and air filter (in the opinion of the author, imported ones are better) -if the previous owner did not do it himself.
Electrical equipment is the least subject to wear, and therefore, "experiments" seller. Your task is to check the serviceability of all lighting fixtures, be sure to change "bugs" on regular fuses and even check the voltage in the on-board network (13.6-14.5V).
Brakes - special attention
Let's move on to the braking system. For the sake of its serviceability, it is not worth sparing money, since this (along with steering) - sacred: your life and the safety of others depend on the serviceability of the brakes. Having removed the plugs, look into the reservoirs of hydraulic brakes and clutches (if its drive is not cable) - the bottom of the tank should be visible through the liquid. Its dark brown color indicates the need for immediate replacement, and it happens that brakes leak with old contaminated fluid, and after a good flushing of the system and filling with fresh, the leak stops. Next, alternately removing the wheels and brake drums (behind), inspect the brake pads, the wear of which should be uniform and not exceed half of the allowable, otherwise the pads are replaced. Then they check the action of the brakes on a deserted highway, making sure that when braking at any intensity, the car does not divert to the side, and also after sudden braking from a speed of 40-60 km / h, all four wheels are blocked, leaving a black and uniform mark on the asphalt (This, of course, does not apply to cars with ABS). And finally, regularly check the liquid level in the tanks, which should remain constant, and keep a bottle in the trunk "brakes".
Next, you need a viewing hole or overpass. After warming up the car, change the oil in the gearbox and rear axle. Then examine the chassis components, paying attention to the integrity of the anthers of the steering rods, ball bearings, CV joints. Have an assistant turn the steering wheel vigorously through a small angle and check for play in the steering linkage joints. If there is a lot of backlash, replace the rods - it's easy and inexpensive, and the role of a serviceable trapezoid in safety and stability of control can not be overestimated! There is nothing more for you to do under the car.
"But excuse me, - the reader will exclaim, - and if I see holes in the bottom, cracked levers, a burnt muffler, a spar that has moved away from the body..." Well, excuse me! I meant that you saw the bottom of this car for the second, and not the first time in your life. That is, the car was inspected and examined carefully when buying (although, perhaps, in an amateurish way), and not just sat in the salon and shook hands. In a word, you should have seen it before!
Spare no shampoo
Now let's proceed to the second stage, the purpose of which is to give your "swallow" individual appearance, as well as try "erase" from machine memory (yes, yours too) memories of having used it before you. On a clear day, thoroughly wash it outside with car shampoo, in hard-to-reach places using a soapy flute brush. If the chrome parts have faded or rusty spots have appeared on them, it does not matter. Rub the affected areas liberally with a gruel of baking soda using a toothbrush. A little laborious, but the result is excellent! It's a good idea to change the faded lenses of the rear lights and sidelights; cost a penny, but the effect is obvious. For wheel rims (definitely rusty) put on plastic caps. In conclusion, rub the body with polish and go to the salon.
Sit in the back seat with a bucket of water, laundry soap, a rag, and a shaving brush or brush. Then lather the back of the ceiling with a shaving brush and, after waiting a little, collect the soap with a strongly wrung out rag. After repeating the procedure, the same with the rest of the ceiling. You will carry out a similar operation with the upholstery of the doors.
Clean the inside of the glass with window cleaner. It is better to throw away old seat covers, in extreme cases - wash well and re-tighten tightly. To the back shelf (in sedans) lay a piece of carpet to match the color of the covers and put the first aid kit, after sorting through its contents. Dashboard ("torpedo") and the steering wheel with the switch, wipe with alcohol and rub with a polishing sponge "555". Removing rubber mats (they need to be washed separately), Vacuum the synthetic carpet thoroughly, ideally with a washing vacuum cleaner. If you smoked in the cabin, and you are not going to, hang an air freshener. If necessary, install new rear-view mirrors - two side mirrors and an enlarged one - in the cabin. Put things in order in the trunk and... have a good trip!