The battery works due to the fact that two different metals, being in an acidic solution, generate electricity.
Key indicators of batteries
Here are some important facts about batteries to help you and your customers choose the right battery for their vehicle.
The battery is 100% efficient at 27°C. At -18°C, the efficiency of the same battery drops to 40%. Now, in order to start the engine, it is necessary to have more than twice as much energy as was needed at 27°C. Emphasize this important factor to your clients. Point out the need for large batteries, especially in cold climates.
starting power (starting amps) indicates the battery's ability to start the vehicle in very cold weather. It shows the number of amps that the battery produces for 30 seconds at -18 C without a voltage drop below 7.2 volts (the minimum level required for a reliable start). The higher this figure, the greater the starting power of the battery.
Standby capacity indicates the length of time in minutes that the battery provides 25 amps at 27°C. This factor represents the time during which the battery provides operation of all auxiliary devices in the car at night and in bad weather conditions with a faulty charge generator.
Cold weather operation
In winter conditions at -18°C or colder, the battery will not charge well due to an increase in internal resistance. For short trips in winter, the energy expended by the battery for starting is not compensated. As a result, the battery wears out, constantly discharges and eventually fails.
"hot start"
During the summer months, after long trips, the engine becomes very hot and it often happens that it is difficult to start it again. Such "hot starts" sometimes require as much power as in cold weather, or more. This is especially true for large displacement high compression engines and air-conditioned vehicles. This once again emphasizes the importance of choosing the right battery according to the vehicle's engine.
How to choose the right battery?
Probably, every motorist has a moment when it becomes too troublesome to mess with the old battery. Especially if it's winter outside and there are bitter frosts. Constant problems starting the engine, endless "homemade" recharging and the fear that the crumbling active mass will close the plates at the most inopportune moment, after which you will be dragged home in tow from some intersection. The conclusion suggests itself: a new battery is needed. But what?
All starter batteries are divided into three categories: serviceable, or repairable; low-maintenance; unattended.
Serviceable batteries are still on sale, although ten years ago they were almost the absolute majority. Now they are produced only by a few Russian factories, and even in several countries of the former socialist bloc. They are easily recognizable by their ebonite body and black mastic, which is poured on top. Such a battery makes it possible to change the block of plates of one or more cans if a short circuit occurs between the plates. But the vast majority won't do it. In addition, the ebonite case, which is more expensive to manufacture, is less different than the plastic case and splits upon impact. Mastic also has a significant drawback - over time, due to dirt and temperature changes, it loses its insulating properties, which is why the battery begins to spontaneously discharge very quickly.
The owner of a maintenance-free battery is simply deprived of the opportunity to do anything with it: there are no holes or filler plugs on the cover of such a battery. These are special batteries designed for certain (read perfect) operating conditions with a mild climate and well-functioning service. They are very expensive and not suitable for use on all vehicles.
Most automotive batteries produced worldwide are low maintenance. They do not have such severe limitations in operation and are widely represented on the market, from relatively cheap and simple to expensive, high-quality and literally stuffed with modern technologies.
Let's say you decide to buy a battery, but where and what kind? First, where. It is best to go to a reputable company, where you will quickly pick up what you need. Now - what. We will not advise something specific, we will give only some recommendations.
The prestige and fame of a brand of batteries are crucial when buying, but some technical issues must be taken into account. Of course, the chemical composition of the plates or the technology of their manufacture is hardly known to the seller. And does the buyer need it? It is better to pay attention to what you can see for yourself. For example, packaged plates (each plate is packed in a microporous envelope-separator), which prevent a short circuit between them due to shedding of the active mass and, accordingly, extend the period "life" battery. Such packages are clearly visible if you open the filler plug. Pay attention to traffic jams. It is known that when charging a battery, water evaporates from the electrolyte and decomposes into hydrogen and oxygen during electrolysis.
To prevent the battery from exploding, a small hole is made in the side or top of the plugs for the release of gases. In the simplest (and the cheapest) batteries make just a small hole, which can quickly become clogged with dirt. In more expensive plugs, they are made like a valve that prevents the electrolyte from splashing out, with a cavity for vapor condensation. It is best if the plugs do not have holes, and the battery cover has a system of cavities for water condensation, as well as a single gas outlet channel, as in maintenance-free batteries.
Low-maintenance batteries are supplied dry-charged by manufacturers (like most serviced) or filled with electrolyte at the factory. If you buy a battery for future use, then it is better to buy a dry-charged one: it has a long shelf life. In order to bring them into working condition, you need to fill in the electrolyte. Factory-filled batteries are ready to go. The electrolyte for them is prepared by specialists from high-quality components and contains a lot of (sometimes more than twenty) additives that prevent sulfation, shedding of the active mass, etc. It must be said that special modifiers have appeared on sale, supposedly containing such additives, but they do not inspire confidence. There is another advantage to flooded batteries. Before getting into the trading network, they are subjected to a special charge with the control of parameters on special equipment. This makes it much easier to identify bad batteries.
Probably the most important thing a buyer should pay attention to is battery performance. There are three of them. The first is the nominal voltage, it is the same for all batteries, and it is impossible to make a mistake. When buying, it is advisable to check the battery with a load plug. The second is the capacitance, measured in ampere / hours (A/h), means, roughly speaking, the amount of electricity stored in the battery. It depends on the capacity how long you can turn the engine with the starter, more precisely, how many attempts you can make to start the engine. The price of a battery is almost directly proportional to its capacity. And the third characteristic is the starting current (measured in amperes, A), i.e. current supplied to the starter during cranking. On batteries, it can be indicated according to four different systems: GOST (on domestic), EN (European standard), SAE (american standard) and DIN. The last, German standard, is closest to our GOST and is installed on most European batteries "default", i.e. when the standard system is not specified. The larger it is, the faster and with more force the starter will turn the engine.
It is better if you buy a battery with the characteristics that are indicated in the operating instructions for your car: this way it will last you longer at minimal cost. You can save money and buy a battery with a smaller capacity, but it will serve you less than usual and will not cope well with winter starting. If you buy a battery of even slightly larger capacity, you will not win in terms of service life, because. Constant undercharging of the battery will lead to sulfation of the plates, and you will lose money. You should also not get carried away with increased starting current: you will burn the starter. It is better to change the oil in the engine, and there will be no problems with starting.
Recently, the country's market is full of low-quality goods and fakes. Batteries are no exception. There are several signs by which it is possible to distinguish the original from the fake with sufficient accuracy. First and, perhaps, most importantly, the country of manufacture and the producing plant must be indicated on the battery, preferably with an address. Secondly, the date of manufacture must be indicated, which is very important if the battery is flooded. Each battery must be accompanied by a technical data sheet, but the presence of instructions is optional. This is due to the fact that in the West, batteries are almost never sold at retail, they are installed by specialists at service stations. Thirdly, a high-quality battery is unthinkable without a high-quality case, good plugs and smooth output terminals, often lubricated with technical protective grease against oxidation and covered with colored plastic caps on top.
"Ampere" load
The main task of the battery is to supply current to start the engine. The current required to crank a cold engine differs from vehicle to vehicle. It depends on piston stroke and diameter, number of cylinders, engine/starter crank ratio, circuit resistance, temperature, engine oil viscosity and accessory load. A four-cylinder engine may require the same amount of starting current as a larger displacement eight-cylinder. When original battery equipment is fitted to the vehicle, all these factors are taken into account.
The second purpose of the battery is to meet the vehicle's load requirements when they exceed the capacity of the charging system to supply energy. The charging system withstands the electrical load under normal driving conditions. However, if the engine is idling, the battery can supply some of the power to the accessories. This occurs when driving around the city with constant stops and resumption of movement with a normal load of auxiliary devices. The battery is supposed to make up for the vehicle's electrical load if the charging system fails.
When replacing a car battery, use an equivalent to the original battery. Use a larger capacity battery if a higher reliability factor is required.
The third purpose of the battery is to act as a voltage stabilizer in the charging system. From time to time, very high transient voltages are generated in the electrical system. This may occur when making or breaking a circuit, etc. The battery partially absorbs and significantly dampens these peak voltages and protects the semiconductor components from failure.
Take care of your battery!
The colder it is outside, the more problems drivers have. One of the main ones is how to start the engine in the cold. And here, first of all, the battery makes itself felt. It is on him in the cold that the greatest load falls: starting the engine requires much more effort. In order for the starter to turn the crankshaft of a cold engine, the battery needs to be given much more energy. At the same time, do not forget that the recovery of the battery does not occur instantly, but after a while: the electrolyte thickened in the cold slowly penetrates into the plates. That is why a second attempt to start the engine is recommended only after a few minutes. In addition, in the cold, the battery discharges very quickly when the starter is running.
Some drivers trying to let go "frozen" engine, continuously turn the starter over and over again. As a result of this violence, the battery is very fast "dies" - finally and irrevocably: the battery plates, unable to withstand excessive loads, begin to warp and crumble.
Apparently, there is no need to talk about the need for regular care of the battery, that you need to check the electrolyte level in the banks at least once a week and, if necessary, top up with distilled water. If the battery is maintenance-free, there are fewer worries. But all the same, you will have to pay attention - you should periodically check the tension of the drive belt, and at the first sign of a decrease in power, the battery must be recharged.
And now we will talk about how to quickly and least painlessly for the battery to start the engine in the cold.
First, the obvious. Change the oil to winter oil in time. Better for imported, because our (including packaged) often has an unpleasant feature of turning into jelly in the cold or freezing altogether. Not to mention how such an oil will lubricate engine parts, the battery will have a very difficult time with it and its days will be numbered.
The second is candles. For the winter it is better to install new ones. But this is a theory, but in practice factors such as "economy" or lack thereof at the right time at hand. For, while the engine starts normally, many do not even remember that there are candles in the engine... If the candles are still old, set the necessary gap in them, which is constantly increasing due to the burning of the electrodes. It is better to do this ahead of time, otherwise you will have to poke around when you need to go. In extreme cases, if the engine does not start, the gap can be set less than recommended, but in this case the electrodes will burn even faster.
In severe frosts, before turning on the starter, "warm up" battery - turn on the high beam for a couple of minutes. And don't try to start the engine right away. First, with a few short starts of the starter, drive the pistons in the cylinders to slightly disperse the thickened oil. And after that, try to run it. If the engine does not start on the first try, do not turn off the starter immediately. The most optimal engine start mode is a series of 10-15 second attempts with three-minute breaks.
Typical Passenger Car Loads (in amperes)
Stop lights | 8 |
Ignition | 6 |
Radio | 0,5 |
Windscreen wipers | 7,5 |
lights (dipped beam) | 9 |
lights (high beam) | 13 |
parking lights | 7 |
Interior lighting | 2 |
Fan (Heater, no air conditioner) | 6 |
Fan (Heater with air conditioner) | 16 |
Air conditioning, summer | 24 |
rear light | 22 |
Main load with air conditioner (Summer) | 50 |
Main load with air conditioner (Winter) | 45 |
Summer launch (Petrol) | 150-250 |
Summer launch (Diesel) | 450-550 |
Run in winter (Gas) | 250-350 |
Run in winter (Diesel) | 700-800 |