Battery — selection and correct operation (Honda CR-V 1)

A battery is a device for storing energy in chemical form that can be used as electricity.

The battery works because two different metals, when placed in an acidic solution, generate electricity.

Key battery indicators

Below are some important facts about batteries to help you and your customers choose the right battery for your car.

The battery is 100% efficient at 27°C. At -18°C, the efficiency of the same battery drops to 40%. Now, in order to start the engine, you need to have more than twice as much energy as was needed at 27°C. Emphasize this important factor to your customers. Point out the need for large batteries, especially in cold climates.

Starting power (starting amperes) shows the battery's ability to start a car in very cold weather conditions. It shows the amount of amperes the battery can produce for 30 seconds at -18C without the voltage dropping below 7.2 volts (the minimum level required for a reliable start). The higher this figure, the greater the starting power of the battery.

The reserve capacity indicates the length of time in minutes that the battery supplies 25 amps at 27°C. This factor represents the time that the battery supplies all accessories in the vehicle at night and in bad weather conditions with a faulty charging alternator.

Operation in cold weather conditions

In winter conditions at -18°C and below, the battery will charge poorly due to an increase in internal resistance. During short trips in winter, the energy expended by the battery for starting is not compensated. As a result, the battery wears out, constantly discharges, and eventually fails.

"Hot start"

During the summer months, after long trips, the engine becomes very hot and it often becomes difficult to start again. These "hot starts" sometimes require as much power as cold weather starts, or more. This is especially true for high-compression, large-displacement engines and vehicles with air conditioning. This once again highlights the importance of choosing the right battery for your vehicle's engine.

How to choose the right battery?

Probably, every motorist reaches a point when it becomes too much of a hassle to continue messing around with an old battery. Especially if it's winter outside and there are severe frosts. Constant problems with starting the engine, endless "home" recharging and the fear that the crumbling active mass will short-circuit the plates at the most inopportune moment, after which you will be towed home from some intersection. The obvious conclusion is that a new battery is needed. But which one?

All starter batteries are divided into three categories: serviceable or repairable; low maintenance; unattended.

Serviced batteries are still available for sale, although ten years ago they constituted almost the absolute majority. Now they are produced only by a few Russian factories and in a few countries of the former socialist camp. They are easily recognizable by their ebonite body and black mastic that is poured on top. This type of battery makes it possible to replace the block of plates of one or several cans if a short circuit occurs between the plates. But the vast majority will not do this. In addition, the ebonite case, which is more expensive to produce, is less durable than the plastic one and breaks upon impact. Mastic also has a significant drawback - over time, due to dirt and temperature changes, it loses its insulating properties, which is why the battery begins to discharge spontaneously very quickly.



The owner of a maintenance-free battery simply has no opportunity to do anything with it: there are no holes or filler plugs on the cover of such a battery. These are special batteries designed for specific applications (read ideal) operating conditions with a mild climate and well-established service. They are very expensive and are not suitable for use on all vehicles.

Most car batteries produced worldwide are low maintenance. They do not have such strict restrictions in operation and are widely represented on the market, from relatively cheap and simple to expensive, high-quality and literally stuffed with modern technologies.

Let's say you've decided to buy a battery, but where and which one? First - where. It's best to go to a reputable company where they'll quickly find what you need. Now - which one. We won't advise anything specific, we'll just give some recommendations.

The prestige and fame of a particular brand of batteries are of decisive importance when purchasing, but some technical aspects must also be taken into account. Of course, the chemical composition of the plates or the technology of their production are unlikely to be known to the seller. And does the buyer need it? It is better to pay attention to what you can see for yourself. For example, packaged plates (each plate is packed in a microporous envelope separator), which prevent short circuits between them due to shedding of active mass and, accordingly, extend the life of the battery. Such bags are clearly visible if you open the filler cap. Pay attention to traffic jams too. It is known that when charging a battery, water evaporates from the electrolyte and decomposes into hydrogen and oxygen during electrolysis.



To prevent the battery from exploding, a small hole is made in the plugs on the side or top to allow gases to escape. In the simplest (and the cheapest) in batteries they simply make a small hole, which can quickly become clogged with dirt. In more expensive ones, the plugs are made like a valve that prevents the electrolyte from splashing out, with a cavity for condensation of vapors. It is best if the plugs do not have holes, and the battery cover has a system of cavities for water condensation, as well as a single gas outlet channel, as in maintenance-free batteries.

Low-maintenance batteries are supplied by manufacturers dry-charged (like most of the services) or filled with electrolyte at the factory. If you are buying a battery for future use, it is better to buy a dry-charged one: it has a long shelf life. To bring them into working condition, you need to fill them with electrolyte. Factory-filled batteries are ready for use. The electrolyte for them is prepared by specialists from high-quality components and contains a lot (sometimes more than twenty) additives that prevent sulfation, shedding of active mass, etc. It must be said that special modifiers have appeared on the market that supposedly contain such additives, but they do not inspire confidence. There is another advantage to flooded batteries. Before they reach the retail network, they undergo special charging with parameters controlled by special equipment. This makes it much easier to identify low-quality batteries.



Perhaps the most important thing a buyer should pay attention to is the battery specifications. There are three of them. The first is the nominal voltage, it is the same for all batteries, and it is impossible to make a mistake. When purchasing, it is advisable to test the battery with a load fork. The second is capacity, measured in ampere-hours (A/h), which roughly refers to the amount of electrical energy stored in the battery. The capacity determines how long the starter can turn the engine, or more precisely, how many attempts can be made to start the engine. The price of a battery is almost directly proportional to its capacity. And the third characteristic is starting current (measured in amperes, A), i.e. the current supplied to the starter during starting. On batteries it can be indicated according to four different systems: GOST (on domestic), EN (standard of the United Europe), SAE (american standard) and DIN. The latter, the German standard, is closest to our GOST and is installed on most European batteries "by default", i.e. when the standard system is not specified. The larger it is, the faster and with greater force the starter will turn the engine.

It is better if you buy a battery with the characteristics specified in your car's operating instructions: this way it will serve you longer with minimal costs. You can save money and buy a battery with a smaller capacity, but it will serve you for a shorter period of time and will not cope well with winter starting. By purchasing a battery with even slightly greater capacity, you will not gain in service life, since constant undercharging of the battery will lead to sulfation of the plates, and you will lose money. You should also not get carried away with increased starting current: you will burn out the starter. It's better to change the engine oil and there won't be any problems with starting.



Recently, the country's market has been overflowing with low-quality goods and counterfeits. Batteries are no exception. There are several signs by which you can distinguish an original from a fake with sufficient accuracy. First and perhaps most important: the battery must indicate the country of manufacture and the manufacturing plant, preferably with the address. Secondly, the date of manufacture must be indicated, which is very important if the battery is flooded. Each battery must be accompanied by a technical data sheet, but the presence of instructions is not required. This is due to the fact that in the West batteries are almost never sold at retail; they are installed by specialists at service stations. Thirdly, a high-quality battery is unthinkable without a high-quality case, good plugs and smooth terminals, often lubricated with technical protective grease against oxidation and covered with colored plastic caps on top.

"Ampere" load

The main function of the battery is to supply current to start the engine. The current required to crank a cold engine varies from car to car. It depends on piston stroke and diameter, number of cylinders, engine/starter cranking ratio, chain resistance, temperature, engine oil viscosity and auxiliary load. A four-cylinder engine may require the same amount of cranking current as a larger displacement eight-cylinder engine. When original battery equipment is selected for a vehicle, all these factors are taken into account.

The second purpose of the battery is to meet the vehicle's load requirements when they exceed the charging system's ability to supply energy. The charging system can withstand the electrical load under normal driving conditions. However, if the engine is idling, the battery can replenish some energy for the accessories. This occurs when driving around the city with constant stops and starts under normal load of auxiliary devices. The battery must replenish the electrical load of the vehicle if the charging system fails.

When replacing a car battery, use one equivalent to the original battery. Use a higher capacity battery if a higher reliability factor is required.

The third purpose of the battery is to act as a voltage stabilizer in the charging system. From time to time, very high transient voltages are generated in the electrical system. This can happen when a circuit is closed or opened, etc. The battery partially absorbs and significantly smooths out these peak voltages and protects the semiconductor components from failure.

Take care of your battery!

The colder it is outside, the more problems drivers have. One of the main ones is how to start the engine in the cold. And here the battery is the first thing to make itself known. It is this part that bears the greatest load in cold weather: starting the engine requires much more effort. In order for the starter to turn the crankshaft of a cold engine, the battery needs to be supplied with significantly more energy. At the same time, do not forget that the restoration of the battery's functionality does not occur instantly, but after some time: the electrolyte, thickened in the cold, slowly penetrates into the plates. This is why it is recommended to try to start the engine again only after a few minutes. In addition, in cold weather the battery discharges very quickly when the starter is running.

Some drivers, trying to start a "frozen" engine, continuously turn the starter over and over again. As a result of this violence, the battery very quickly "dies" - finally and irrevocably: the battery plates, unable to withstand excessive loads, begin to warp and crumble.

Apparently, there is no need to talk about the need for regular maintenance of the battery, about the need to check the electrolyte level in the jars at least once a week and, if necessary, add distilled water. If the battery is maintenance-free, there are fewer worries. But you still have to pay attention - you should periodically check the tension of the drive belt, and at the first signs of a decrease in power, the battery must be recharged.

Now we will talk about how to start the engine in the cold as quickly and as painlessly as possible for the battery.

First, the obvious. Replace the oil with winter oil in a timely manner. Better to import, because it's ours (including packaged) often has the unpleasant property of turning into jelly in the cold or even freezing. Not to mention how such oil will lubricate engine parts, the battery will have a very hard time with it and its days will be numbered.

Second - spark plugs. It is better to install new ones for the winter. But this is a theory, and in practice, factors such as "economy" or the lack of them at hand at the right time often come into play. Because, while the engine starts normally, many do not even remember that there are spark plugs in the engine... If the spark plugs are still old, set the required gap in them, which constantly increases due to the burning of the electrodes. It's better to do this in advance, otherwise you'll have to fiddle around with it when you need to go. In extreme cases, if the engine does not start, the gap can be set smaller than recommended, but in this case the electrodes will burn out even faster.

In severe frosts, before turning on the starter, "warm up" the battery - turn on the high beam for a couple of minutes. And don't try to start the engine right away. First, use a few short starts to move the pistons in the cylinders to slightly disperse the thickened oil. And only after that try to launch it. If the engine does not start on the first try, do not turn off the starter immediately. The most optimal engine starting mode is a series of 10-15 second attempts with three-minute breaks.

Typical passenger car loads (in amps)

Brake lights	8
Ignition	6
Radio	0,5
Windscreen wipers	7,5
headlights (Low beam)	9
headlights (High beam)	13
Parking lights	7
Interior lighting	2
Fan (Heater, no air conditioning)	6
Fan (Heater with air conditioner)	16
Air conditioning, in summer	24
Rear light	22
Main load with air conditioning (Summer)	50
Main load with air conditioning (Winter)	45
Summer Start (Petrol)	150-250
Summer launch (Diesel)	450-550
Winter Start (Gas)	250-350
Winter Start (Diesel)	700-800

[The text was taken from the website HondaBook.ru]