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CR-V 1 (1995-2001, petrol) CR-V 2 (2002-2006, petrol)

Turbocharger Replacement Tips (Honda CR-V 1)

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  • Honda CR-V
  • 1 (1995-2001, petrol)
  • General information
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  • Turbocharger Replacement Tips
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Rule #1: Don't even think about repairing your turbocharger at home.

Rule #2: You can replace a faulty turbocharger with a new one without much difficulty.

Not so long ago there were times when a car with a turbocharger was automatically considered one of the sportiest, most powerful and, of course, most expensive. A huge distance has been covered over the last 15 years and today it is almost impossible to find a modern diesel engine that does not have a similar unit next to it.

Despite the fact that turbocharger components operate at temperatures up to 800°C and speeds of 50,000-85,000 rpm, they are quite reliable. However, they also wear out and age, and the first turbocharged units (they became really widespread 5-7 years ago) are already failing and, sometimes, this is accompanied by serious consequences.

However, it is not always worth blaming the turbocharger for the fact that the engine suddenly began to lose power. The reason for this could be a banal clamp that has become loose and fallen off the pipeline, or a broken seal.

Most often, however, the reason for the decrease in power of the power unit is a faulty turbocharger. It is not worth trying to repair it, but replacing it is quite possible on most common cars.

In general, diesel engines are easier to repair in this way than petrol engines due to the simplicity of their design. The most convenient are all-wheel drive vehicles, which have plenty of repair space around the engine.

The most complex are the "charged" sports models, especially those equipped with twin turbochargers. The standard work on their replacement at the dealer in this case is calculated for 12 hours. For models of such complexity, it is recommended not to even think about repairing at home, and many professionals refuse to take it on if they do not have a full set of necessary tools and devices.



However, you shouldn't give in and surrender early. On most models, replacing the turbocharger can be done independently. The main problem will be engine compartments overcrowded with units and limited access to the engine. Sleight of hand and an S-shaped wrench will help here better than any special tools.

Like any repair job, replacing a turbocharger requires focus and method. Start by clearing access to the units from pipelines, wires and other auxiliary components. You will need a lot of free space, as you will need to remove four (sometimes - three) exhaust manifold nuts, downpipe, three oil feed and drain lines, and all air supply lines. Water-cooled turbochargers are even more complex due to the additional parts.

One of the inevitable companions of a turbocharger's life is high operating temperatures. As a result, the nuts that attach to the exhaust manifold are "welded" almost permanently and it is necessary to apply a significant amount of a product such as WD 40 before starting to work with them. After replacing the main unit, it is imperative to replace the nuts with new ones made of stainless steel. If they are made of ordinary steel, then next time it will probably be almost impossible to unscrew them.

The studs may turn a few turns when the nuts are loosened, or even turn out completely. Check carefully for any distortion or damage to the threads. If this happens, restore the threads and screw the studs back into place until they stop.

Not all turbocharger designs include a sealing gasket at the junction with the exhaust manifold. Therefore, do not be surprised if you do not find it when dismantling this unit on your car. If there was a gasket, be sure to install a new one during subsequent assembly.



After removing the turbocharger, check all exposed oil lines. To do this, ask someone to turn on the starter (removing the high-voltage wires from the engine to eliminate the possibility of starting it), and see for yourself that the oil flows freely. Once you've installed the new turbo, do this again to get oil to the bearings before the "real" work begins. Turbo bearings without oil, even for a second, is the worst thing a turbo can experience in its life.

How much does turbocharging cost?



As we know, only the wind in the reeds is free. The increased power of a turbocharged engine comes at a price. And not only by increasing fuel consumption. The requirements for its quality are increasing - most turbocharged engines require gasoline with an octane rating of 96-98. Despite the fact that pistons, rings, heads and connecting rods are reinforced, the engine's service life is noticeably reduced, the higher the boost pressure. It can be assumed that the average service life of an engine with a turbocharger does not exceed 100 thousand km, and the service life of the compressor itself is about 10 thousand hours. For mechanical superchargers, it is higher - about 25 thousand hours. The lubrication system of the turbocharger requires special oils that can withstand high temperatures and rotation speeds of more than 100,000 rpm. The temperature in the turbine part of the compressor reaches 1000°C, so its bearings require additional water cooling. All of the above results in a fairly significant increase in the cost of the car and its maintenance for the consumer.

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This information has been verified: Emil Safonov
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CR-V 1: Tips for car owner
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CR-V 2 (2002-2006, petrol) 
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CR-V 1 (1995-2001, petrol) 
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