Front suspension components
1 - Push rod; 2 - Assembling the shock absorber with a helical spring; 3 - Lower ball joint; 4 - Lower control lever; 5 - Tie rod end; 6 - Bar stabilizer bar; 7 - Rack and pinion assembly
Rear Suspension Components
1 - Bar stabilizer bar; 2 - Rear trailing arm; 3 - Control lever; 4 - Upper arm; 5 - Assembling the shock absorber with a helical spring; 6 - Lower arm; 7 - Front trailing arm
Rear suspension elements
1 - Front trailing arm; 2 - Stabilizer bar; 3 - Lever; 4 - Lower arm; 5 - Rear trailing arm; 6 - Fist; 7 - shock absorber
The front suspension is fully independent with upper and lower wishbones, coil spring shock absorbers and anti-roll bar.
Rear suspension uses trailing arms (front and rear), two lower control arms of unequal length (one is referred to simply as the lower arm, the second as the control arm), upper control arm and shock absorber assembly with coil springs. The anti-roll bar connects the right and left sides of the suspension, thereby compensating for body sway.
All models are equipped with rack and pinion steering with hydraulic booster. In the power steering system (PAS) an engine-driven steering pump is used, connected to the rack and pinion housing via flexible hydraulic hoses.
Often, during the maintenance of suspension components, one has to deal with hard-to-return fasteners. "sticking" fasteners due to the fact that they are constantly exposed to external influences, are in contact with water, dirt, soot and other substances that contribute to the development of corrosion. In order to facilitate the procedure for giving such "stuck" fasteners, it should be impregnated in advance with a copious amount of penetrating oil. Scouring exposed threaded parts of fasteners with a stiff wire brush also helps loosen rusted nuts. Sometimes, in especially severe cases, for letting go "stuck" bolts / nuts, you can use a drift. The punch rests against the edge of the slot of the nut / bolt head, then sharp blows are applied to its opposite end with a hammer. Make sure that the drift does not break, try not to damage the thread with inaccurate blows. Heating a non-retractable fastener and the surrounding surface of the component with a blowtorch or gas burner is also a fairly effective method, although the drafters of this Guide do not recommend resorting to this technology unless absolutely necessary due to its potential danger associated with the possibility of fire and the risk of burns. To increase the torque when releasing fasteners, various kinds of extensions, gates and pipe nozzles are used on them. However, remember that you should not use this kind of amplifying devices complete with equipped "ratchet" drive - the risk of failure of the ratchet mechanism is too great. Sometimes a nut/bolt starts to give in after it has been pre-tightened slightly in a clockwise direction. All fasteners, the release of which required the use of extraordinary measures during assembly, must be replaced!
Note. After giving away, carefully check the condition of the fastener and, if necessary, replace it with elements of the same size. When assembling, tighten the fasteners of the suspension and steering components strictly with the required force.
Attention! Never attempt to straighten deformed suspension and steering components - replace defective parts with new ones! Since the maintenance procedures for the suspension components are performed under the vehicle, care should be taken in advance to raise the vehicle and fix it in a raised position (prepare a reliable jack and props).
Attention! Under no circumstances should you carry out any work under the vehicle, which has only been secured in the raised position with a jack!