Sometimes the insulation can be restored by soaking the anchor in a can of motor oil. A much greater effect is achieved by slightly warming up the drying oil if you keep the anchor in it in several stages, taking daily breaks for drying.
The same problem - a breakdown of the winding - befalls the windshield washer electric motor. This often happens due to the car owner's carelessness, when either the water tank is empty, or the liquid is frozen, or the spray nozzles or pump filter are clogged, and there is a "bug" in the fuse box in the electric motor circuit.
In general, it's better not to joke around with fuses. This will not only avoid short circuits, which sometimes result in fire, but will also make it easier to detect faults.
For a novice motorist, there should be a golden rule: the search for the causes of electrical equipment malfunctions should begin with the fuse box.
I remember when I was buying my first car in my life, I noticed in the store that the battery charge indicator light was on. Then the assumption was born that, probably, either the generator brushes had not yet been adjusted, or the voltage regulator was "fooling" (at that time cars were equipped with mechanical relay regulators of Bulgarian production. Sometimes, they were triggered to "recharge", and the light bulb came on). Replacing the relay controller did not give any results: the generator simply did not generate power. Replacing the brush assembly also proved useless.
I had to remove the generator, having first drained the coolant from the system and dismantled the thermostat. Checking the generator windings and the diode "bridge" showed that everything was in order. Only later, after doing all this unnecessary work on a brand new car, did I think to look in the fuse box. Of course, there was simply no corresponding fuse in the excitation circuit of the generator winding.
So if your generator fails, start checking with the fuse. Even if it is intact, don't be lazy and clean the areas of its contact. Only after this should you take hold of the generator itself.
However, do not rush to disassemble and dismantle it. First, check the brush assembly. The presence of large chips on the brushes, their significant wear or oiling can already cause the generator to fail.
Pay attention to the condition of the anchor contact rings, which are visible in the window into which the brush assembly is inserted. Scratches and grooves are removed with sandpaper and then polished. If these operations do not produce results, you will need to take on the rectifier unit, having first disconnected the wires from the battery and generator. The unit is checked using a test lamp. The negative pole of the battery is connected to the generator body, the positive pole is connected through a light bulb to terminal "30".
If the light comes on, it means that the rectifier block is broken and needs to be replaced. It does happen, however, that either the positive or negative valves of the block break through. But it is probably better not to go into these subtleties, especially since separate replacement of valves is not practiced.
Finally, about the starter. This is perhaps one of the most durable components of the car, although it "works" in the most difficult conditions. Even when the engine is overhauled, sometimes only the brushes in the starter are changed and the contact rings are cleaned.
The weakest point of the starter is the overrunning clutch, or "bendix": sometimes the thrust rollers fly apart or get stuck. And then, when starting the engine, only a buzzing sound is heard: the starter rotates, but does not turn the engine flywheel. Sometimes washing the "bendix" in kerosene or acetone helps. But craftsmen, as a rule, flare the clip with rollers and either change all the clip parts or thoroughly wash them.
Another common malfunction is not so much related to the starter itself, but to oxidation or breakage of the tips of the special braided bus that connects the engine to the body, that is, the "ground" (the tire is located under the engine). In this case, the starter makes characteristic clicks or is generally "silent", unless, of course, the "silence" is caused by another reason - disconnection of the positive wire of the starter relay. One way or another, verification is needed. If the relay wire is in place, grab the bus. But if the wire does come out, don't try to insert it without removing the starter - you'll waste your time. The starter will have to be removed.
The text of the article is available on the website: HondaBook.ru